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Many traditional American apple varieties are in danger of being lost forever due to industrialized agriculture. Slow Food International is working to preserve 129 heritage apples in their Ark of Taste. Consumers can help by asking for traditional apples and supporting artisan farmers.
Although the apple is an Old World fruit, traditional apples are an important part of American culinary traditions and history. In 1872, 1,100 uniquely American apples were identified in the United States, including varieties such as Hyslop and Stayman. Today, only a handful of apples are sold in American supermarkets, and a few struggling orchards specialize in traditional apples in an effort to preserve American heritage. Slow Food International identifies 129 heritage apples in their Ark of Taste, fearing many more are lost forever, and is working hard to preserve them for future generations to enjoy.
The vast shrinkage of available apple varieties owes much to industrialized agriculture. Heritage apples ripen at different times, are notoriously fragile, and can be difficult to harvest. They don’t lend themselves to large-scale orchards, don’t pack well, and come in weird, jittery shapes that some consumers conditioned to heavily hybridized apples find unappealing. Commercial apple production focuses on creating consistent, easily packable apples, a far cry from the 18th-century wanderings of Johnny Appleseed, the man responsible for the widespread dissemination of apples in the United States.
Nearly every region of the United States can lay claim to at least one unique apple, ranging from California’s Sierra Beauty, a tart, greenish greenish apple first identified in the 1800s, to New York’s classic Baldwin apple, a bright red winter variety that has contributed to the lineage of many other heritage apples. Sierra Beauty was assumed to have been lost until the 1980s, when it was discovered in active cultivation on the Gowan Family Farm in Philo, California. Many heritage apples have unusual and fanciful names that suggest exotic origins, while others make reckless excuses as superior, as is the case with the Westfield Seek-no-Further, an 1800s Massachusetts apple with a golden skin and a rich, fruity flavor. complex that lends itself well to desserts and baking.
Other apples of exotic origins include the Zabergau Reinette, a russet apple with a dull yellow skin and potato-like shape with a rich, nutty flavor. The Zabergau Reinette overwinters very well, although at first glance it could be confused with a Yukon Gold potato. Thomas Jefferson was said to favor the Esopus Spitzenburg, another New York apple with red to scarlet skin, and probably related to Baldwin. A trip to New Jersey introduces the consumer to the Maiden Blush, a yellowish apple with a rich red blush on one side and sweet, crunchy, tender flesh that dries very well or can be used in desserts and baking.
Classic American apples include the Winesap, Gravenstein and Hawkeye. Winesaps are red Virginia apples with crunchy, juicy, tart flesh and are counted among the ancestors of many traditional apples. Gravenstein apples originated in Germany, but were heavily grown in Sonoma after 1811, when they were originally brought to that region of California by Russian travelers. Streaked green apples are difficult to harvest, however, due to their short stems and short July ripening period. Hawkeye was first identified in Iowa and is the original Red Delicious. The Hawkeye, however, is very different from the heavily hybridized and uniformly red Red Delicious. It has a slightly sweet, slightly tart flavor, mottled red skin and crunchy flesh.
Fortunately, some American orchards are working to preserve traditional apples and grow more. Farmers’ markets and specialty shops may stock traditional apples, and most orchards welcome visitors to view their trees and purchase goods right on the farm. Apple lovers can help preserve rare heritage apples by asking for them, sending a message to producers that heritage apples are in demand. In addition to preserving an important part of American history, you’ll also get to experience incredible and diverse flavors and support artisan farmers.
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