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French ivory is a man-made material resembling natural ivory, made from celluloid and camphor. It can be differentiated by its parallel lines and lighter weight. It was used for decorative items, billiard balls, and personal care items. French ivory yellows with age and is easily stained. It can be identified by its light weight and translucent nature. Careful storage is required to prevent damage.
French ivory is one of the first man-made materials created to resemble expensive natural ivory. This faux ivory is made from celluloid, a cellulose and camphor thermoplastic dating back to the 1860s and used extensively until the mid-20th century. It can be differentiated from natural ivory by its parallel lines rather than the dotted lines found in genuine ivory and by its lighter weight. French ivory can be molded easily, making it an ideal substance for a wide variety of items, including decorative dressers, silverware handles, hair accessories, and gaming pieces. While it has some drawbacks and requires thoughtful storage and care, many antique and vintage items made from this early plastic are highly collectible.
Early experiments with French celluloid or ivory focused on producing a replacement for expensive natural ivory billiard balls. It wasn’t until camphor was added to the experimental mix that a material hard enough for billiard balls was created. Alexander Parkes, Daniel Spill, John Wesley and Isaiah Hyatt all played crucial roles in perfecting this early plastic in the 1860s and 1870s.
Soon, the material was fashioned into a variety of decorative items, including jewelry, accessories, buttons and handles for hairbrushes, and other personal care items, all at a relatively low cost. Also known as Ivorine, Ivoire de Paris, Ivorette, and other various trade names alluding to its resemblance to natural ivory, the material was popular for its ivory color and affordability. The use of more durable plastics eventually replaced its widespread use.
Created primarily from the plant material cellulose and alcoholic camphor, this early man-made material had a few drawbacks. Billiard balls made of it were said to occasionally crack on contact, and the material is highly flammable. Unlike ivory, French ivory yellows with age. It is also easily stained by perfumes and oils, making French ivory jewelry and accessories less durable than those made from the natural materials this substance imitated.
In addition to producing ivory-like celluloid, colors have been created to mimic tortoise shell, coral, and amber, which are also expensive natural materials. Special dyes were used to color the celluloid. Beads, brooches, fancy combs, hat pins and other accessories made from ivory celluloid are easily found at antique markets and vintage collectable jewelry stores.
There are several tests to identify objects made from French ivory. The “hot pin” test is destructive and rarely used by collectors, because celluloid is flammable. A less damaging test is to hold the piece in hot water for several seconds, and if it smells camphor-like, like mothballs, it’s probably celluloid. This early plastic can also be identified by its light weight and translucent nature when held up to light. Its tendency to become brittle and crack also helps identify it.
Caring for antique and vintage items crafted from French ivory requires attention to storage conditions. Extreme heat and cold, along with high humidity or direct sunlight, can damage French ivory. Oils, alcohol-based perfumes, makeup and other chemicals should be kept away from celluloid items. It can be cleaned with warm water and a soft brush.
