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What’s a Mary Stuart cap?

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The Mary Stuart cap, popular in the Elizabethan era, is a fitted hat with a triangular piece of material over the forehead, often worn with a veil. It became associated with widowhood and is still worn for formal occasions and in costumes. Custom versions are sometimes made for weddings.

A Mary Stuart cap or attifet is a type of hat that became popular in the Elizabethan era, thanks to its regular appearances in portraits of Mary Stuart. This distinctively styled cap became fashionable for a brief period, and was even part of formal mourning dress as early as Victorian times. Most modern attifets are homemade by enthusiasts, although some specialty hat shops sometimes carry them or are willing to make them to special order.

A classic Mary Stuart cap is distinguished by being very fitted, with a rigid triangular piece of material that hangs over the forehead, creating a heart shape when viewed from the front. The design was intended to accommodate a veil, which would normally be worn over the lid, and the material could be rolled up at the back or formed with wires to hold it rigidly in place. The cap also flared slightly at the sides to accommodate the rolls of hair.

To see an example of what a Mary Stuart cap looks like, search for Mary Stuart with your favorite search engine, because any image you find is likely to show her with an attifet, especially if they were painted later in her life. Because Mary became a widow at a very young life, the Mary Stuart cap became associated with widowhood, and the romanticization of it in England and Scotland led many people to adopt the fashion in her honor. Elizabeth I, her political rival, was even seen wearing a Mary Stuart cap on occasion, indicating that the style was clearly quite widespread.

The design of a Mary Stuart cap is flattering on a wide range of faces, and for this reason, custom versions are sometimes made for formal occasions, such as weddings. A white Mary Stuart cap trimmed with seed pearls is a novel accessory for a bride, especially if she’s participating in an old-fashioned ceremony. Mary Stuart caps are of course also worn in costumes for performances set in the Elizabethan era.

A comb is usually sewn into a Mary Stuart cap to keep it firmly attached to the wearer’s head, otherwise the hat would slip off. Some people also use pins to make sure their caps stay snug and well positioned, especially if your decorations are heavy or if a veil is worn with the cap. If someone has a lot of hair, the hair can be rolled up and used as a base for hairpins, providing a surprisingly comfortable wearing experience.

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