Art nouveau jewelry featured organic patterns based on natural forms, often made of non-traditional materials like bone and enamel. The movement emphasized functional art and beauty in everyday objects, with bright colors and curvilinear designs. It differed greatly from earlier Victorian jewelry and was popular in the late 1800s and early 1900s.
Art nouveau jewelry was popular in the late 1800s and early 1900s and featured many of the same characteristics as its counterparts in art, furniture, and sculpture. Popular themes in art nouveau jewelry were curvilinear, organic patterns that were based on natural forms and often featured flowers, plants, insects, or birds. New and alternative media and techniques were also important, and jewelry made of bone, wood, brass, and enamel was popular.
The art nouveau movement began in the late 19th century and continued into the early 20th century. It was popular both in the United States and in Europe. Art nouveau emphasized the idea of functional art and encouraged turning everyday items into works of art. For example, furniture and kitchen utensils were decorated in the art nouveau style. Art nouveau jewelry and stained glass windows were also very common.
Characteristics of the art nouveau style include organic figures and curved lines. Floral patterns, vines, and leaves were used extensively, and common themes included stylized and curvaceous images of women. Animals, including birds and insects, were also common in movement imagery. Colors were often bright and clearly defined.
Like the artwork, art nouveau jewelry also focused on organic and natural figures. Butterflies, bees, and other insects were common themes in the work of this time period. Often these creatures would be incorporated into necklaces or brooches.
Due to art nouveau’s concern with artistic craftsmanship and the beauty of everyday objects, art nouveau jewelry emphasized the inherent beauty of the piece rather than the value of its materials. It was not uncommon for non-traditional and inexpensive materials to be used in these pieces. Wood, bone, and semi-precious metals or stones were often used.
Another material often used in art nouveau jewelry was enamel. Enamel is a type of paint that dries very hard and can look like jewelery or stone in a finished work. It is typically brightly colored. Enamels may have been used to fill channels in gold jewelry or to create a stained glass look on certain pieces.
Jewelry from the art nouveau period differed greatly from earlier jewelry. Victorian jewelry was often heavy and designed in early Classical or Gothic styles. Art nouveau emphasized lightness in both look and feel and was first adopted by some of the movie stars of the day, quickly making the style popular.
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