To judge the quality of olive oil, look for cold-pressed oil with a uniform, light color and a production date. Hand-picked olives that are cold pressed and the first pressing tend to produce the best oil. Taste the oil for a clean, rich, fruity, and heavily peppery flavor. Avoid refined and processed oils and store in a cool, dry, dark place.
Numerous parameters are used to judge the quality of olive oil, including how the olives are harvested and how it is pressed. Ideally, you should be able to taste an oil before you buy it to judge its quality, but if that’s not possible, there are a few things to look for that will help you make an informed decision. Cold-pressed oil with a uniform, light color is usually best. Most nations are members of the International Olive Oil Council, which has strict standards for labeling that will provide insight into the quality and taste of the oil. Unfortunately for American consumers, the US doesn’t belong on the board, and so American labels may not be as clear.
The best olive oil tends to come from hand-picked olives that are cold pressed, and the highest quality pressing is the first pressing. Hand-picking ensures that no bad olive blends have been blended into the lot to taint the flavor of the oil, and that leaves, twigs, and debris have not been mixed in by the crusher. Since hand-picking takes time, olive oil made from hand-picked olives will be significantly more expensive. Cold pressing, without the use of heat, protects the complex flavors, while the first pressing has the lowest acid content and will have the most well-developed and intense flavor. Avoid refined and otherwise processed olive oils at all costs.
If possible, buy fresh oil. If you live in an olive producing region, you can often take decanters straight to the mill to get the best oil. If this is not an option for you, only purchase products with a production date; although olive oil stores well, it tastes best fresh. Also, it should be solid in color, with no opacity, unless the weather is cold. It should be stored in stone, ceramic or glass because plastic will let in unpleasant flavors. Olive oil should be stored in a cool, dry, dark place to prevent it from going rancid. If you live in a hot area, buy it in small quantities and use it quickly.
Taste, of course, is the best way to judge olive oil. Shops that supply fine olive oils usually allow their customers to taste it. Start by smelling the olive oil; it should smell like rich, fruity olives, with a slight hint of pepper. Examine the color for clarity, but don’t put too much emphasis on the color, as different regions produce differently colored oils. Next, taste a small amount, rolling it around your mouth before letting it slide down your throat. It should taste clean, rich, fruity, and heavily peppery. High-quality oil will have an intense bite, although this will ease with storage time. If it tastes buttery or otherwise “off,” it may be rancid and should be avoided.
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