Vintage watches, over 25 years old, can be difficult to identify, but signs of wear, metal composition, and maker’s name can help. Research is crucial to avoid counterfeits.
There are many types of vintage watches, from wristwatches to pocket watches to small decorative clocks. The term vintage covers a wide range of years, anything that is 25 years or older. The line between antiques and vintage is vague, but vintage generally describes an item that is several decades old, while an antique item can be several centuries old. With that in mind, identifying authentic vintage watches can be difficult, but learning how to spot excellent craftsmanship and identify the makers will help you in your search.
To recognize a vintage watch, first consider the overall appearance of the watch. Vintage watches will often show signs of wear, such as scratched and yellowed faceplates or damage to the clasp and strap. Old watches usually do not have plastic parts. Most are made of metal.
You can also look for markings that indicate whether the watch is gold or silver. Silver is often marked “925” or “sterling silver,” indicating the purity of the metal. Gold usually has lowercase letters that say “10k,” “14k,” “18k,” or “24k.” American-made watches typically use 14-karat gold, while European watches use 18- or 24-karat gold.
Another easy way to test the authenticity of gold or silver is to place a magnet near the band. Do not place the magnet near the watch, as this may damage the internal workings. If the metal is attracted to the magnet, it is not gold or silver.
The name of the watch maker also helps to recognize vintage watches. Although there are hundreds of watch companies, some famous companies went out of business decades ago, and from that name alone, it can be seen that the watch is old. Some popular collectible brands are Omega, Hamilton, Gruen, Bulova, Longines, Elgin and of course Rolex.
Since there are dozens and even hundreds of brands, a lot of research is required to have a working knowledge of vintage watch brands. There are numerous websites, forums, and books on the subject of collectible vintage brands. Counterfeiting is a serious problem in the watch industry, so there are many other features you’ll need to check, in addition to the manufacturer’s name, to ensure the watch is genuine.
For example, a genuine Rolex has a smooth back. It will not have engravings or logos. Many counterfeits have a transparent back to show the inner workings of the watch or logos and other engravings on the back. A general rule of thumb is that if a deal seems too good to be true, it usually is. If a watch is very expensive, it is best to have it inspected by an outside professional to determine the value before purchasing.
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