The necktie’s origins date back to ancient China and Rome, where it was used for practical purposes. It wasn’t until the Middle Ages that it became a decorative element. The modern necktie was inspired by Croatian mercenaries’ large cravats, which were more practical than frilled collars. The tie evolved over time, becoming narrower and allowing for more elaborate knots like the half and full Windsor.
Fashion is often dictated by function, and that is the case with the humble necktie. Military and royal costumes in ancient China often included a band of cloth used to close the neck opening. However, this Chinese neckband was more like a scarf than a modern tie. The wearer would simply wrap the band around their neck and allow an overcoat to hold it in place. A dirty collar was much easier to replace than the shirt and undergarments it protected.
The Roman military also adopted a form of neck protection in the form of a square necktie, although it functioned more as a bib than a decorative element. It wasn’t until the Middle Ages that the decorative and functional aspects of a necktie were fully integrated. Gorgets of lace or muslin were generally considered the standard neckpiece of the day, but these frilled collars were not always very practical, especially for working military officers. When various European governments began recruiting Croatian mercenaries, they were impressed with the Croatian military uniforms they wore.
Croatian soldiers customarily wore large cravats to protect their shirts and buttons from damage during battle. Other Europeans soon discovered the advantages of these ties over their ornate ruffled collars. The actual term for these rudimentary ties was cravat, believed to be a French corruption of Croatian. The Croatian mercenaries who inspired this fashion trend, however, were said to be more interested in their perception as skilled fighters rather than fashion experts.
The tie remained in fashion for several centuries, but already in the 1800s men had found new ways to tie the cloth around the neck. One of the first knots created for the tie was called “Quattro in mano”, perhaps inspired by the knots used by coachmen to tie the reins of their horses. The Four in Hand knot allowed men to wrap the tie around the neck and then secure it snugly against the throat. One theory suggests that the modern necktie was used to cover the front buttons of military uniforms, as these buttons were often made from expensive metal or pearlescent material.
Eventually the tie became narrower and more tailored. The thinner material of a modern tie has allowed for even more elaborate knots, including “half Windsor” and “full Windsor”. Although the Windsor knot was named after the Duke of Windsor, he actually preferred a simpler knot formed with a thicker tie. Half Windsor and Windsor knots added loops to the neckline before the tie was finished at the front. The result was a large triangular knot that could be tightened comfortably around the wearer’s neck. The bottom tip of the triangle would create a stylish dimple in the material, then the rest of the tie would hang down the center of the shirt, covering the buttons.
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