The Japanese kimono jacket was originally worn by men in formal hakama ensembles, but women gradually adopted it. Today, some types are worn by both genders, and lighter, casual versions are popular as loungewear. Different styles include the haori, michiyuki, happi, hanten, ama, douchuugi, and raincoat kimono. Women also wear capes and shawls over their kimono.
The Japanese kimono jacket was designed to be worn over a kimono, both for added insulation and to protect the kimono from the elements. Originally, the kimono jacket was worn by men as part of a formal hakama ensemble, which includes multiple pieces. Little by little, women began to adopt the kimono jacket. In the early 21st century, some types of kimono jackets are still worn by men, some are worn only by women, and some are worn by both. Although original kimono jackets could be expensive and elaborate, lighter, more casual coats are popular as contemporary Japanese robes and loungewear.
The haori is half the length of the kimono, averaging 30 inches (76.2 cm) in length, with the most formal haori being the longest and most formal style, known as the kuro montsuki haori, reserved for funerals or graduations. . Like kimonos, they often have elaborate patterns. The haori has kimono-style sleeves and a similar shape, and can be worn in two ways: open, closed, or fastened by a type of internal braided belt called a himo, which is tied or hooked. Himo are expensive, so many men and women own a himo that can be separated and worn in multiple haori. In modern Japan, haori are popular as tunics and loungewear, and are often seen worn over Western-style attire.
Like the haori, the michiyuki is another short kimono jacket. It is three-quarter length and has a square neck, and is normally worn by women. It is usually fastened in front with press studs and, like the haori, does not use an outer sash. They are usually made of silk, satin, or crape and often lack the elaborate kimono patterns, although they can sometimes have a subtle Japanese checkered or striped pattern.
Various types of light cotton kimono jacket are worn by both men and women during the summer, choosing the style based on the type of activity. Happi, worn by both sexes, are light cotton coats with bright designs; They are used for outdoor summer festivals. Hanten are similar jackets of light cotton worn as livery by traders and often have more subtle patterns. Both often have Japanese text characters called kanji printed on them.
Other types of kimono jacket women wear as outerwear include the square-necked ama and the thick douchuugi, which is lined with cotton wadding for insulation against the cold. There is also the raincoat kimono, which is waterproof and is used to protect the formal kimono underneath. These are often made of synthetic fabric in contemporary society. Women also wear capes and shawls over their kimono, in a tradition borrowed from Western society.
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