“Angels on horseback” is a popular hot appetizer made by wrapping oysters in bacon, skewering, and grilling them. They originated in Victorian England and are now served at upscale parties and gatherings. Variations include using scallops, prawns, or chicken livers, and they can be made with pancetta or turkey bacon for a healthier option. Toothpicks or skewers are used to hold them together, and they can be served with toast and salad for a light dinner. They can be bought frozen or made at home, but fresh oysters should be used within 24 hours.
“Angels on horseback” is the imaginative name given to a type of hot appetizer in which oysters are wrapped in bacon strips, skewered and grilled. They originated in Victorian England as a popular after-dinner snack, but have since become a common appetizer served at upscale parties, weddings, and other types of gatherings. They are occasionally served on toast points, which are crustless triangles of toasted buttered bread, but more often than not they are presented on their own to be eaten straight off the skewer.
The name itself, “angels on horseback,” is believed to come from its classic appearance when the edges of the bacon curl up after grilling, remotely resembling upturned angels’ wings. They are sometimes called oysters in brochette or simply bacon-wrapped oysters. Sometimes, the Angels on Horseback will be battered and fried, but for the most part, they’re grilled or broiled.
Shucked oysters are usually first marinated in a combination of white wine and garlic for several hours. They are then patted dry, seasoned with salt and pepper, then carefully wrapped in a flattened piece of bacon or sometimes just half a strip of bacon, depending on the size of the oyster. Secured with a toothpick, they can be prepared in advance and kept covered and refrigerated until ready to cook. They can also be frozen. It only takes a few minutes per side under the broiler to crisp up the bacon before serving.
There are a number of variations on the traditional horse angels, such as replacing the oyster with scallops, prawns, or chicken livers. A particularly popular version called Devils on Horseback replaces the oysters with stuffed plums or dates. Almond, bleu cheese, and mango chutney are often used as the filling, although anything that complements the flavor of the bacon and can withstand grilling or cooking temperatures can be used.
You can also substitute pancetta for pancetta, an Italian cured meat similar to bacon but not smoked, or even turkey bacon for a reduced-fat, low-calorie version. Some recipes for angels on horseback will suggest partially cooking the pancetta or bacon before packing, which reduces the cooking time needed, ensuring that the oysters or other selected centerpieces are not overcooked. This will also help reduce the fat content.
Toothpicks are the usual skewering implement, although metal or bamboo skewers can also be used. For grilling, bamboo skewers in particular should be soaked in water for at least 30 minutes to prevent them from burning. Additionally, longer skewers can turn an individual appetizer into a three- or four-piece platter or a light dinner when served with toast and a small salad. This is quite a popular way to serve angels on horseback in England and many other northern European countries.
A number of frozen food manufacturers make horse angels for easy preparation and serving, but they can be made at home just as easily. Shucking oysters might prove to be the most difficult task, so when buying them from a fishmonger, it’s a good idea to have them shucked in the store. They should be used within 24 hours, as their freshness will deteriorate quickly.
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