Aveiro in Portugal is known for its unique desserts, including ovos moles, made of egg yolks and sugary syrup. The dessert has a centuries-old history and can be flavored with cinnamon or vanilla. It is often shaped like an egg or used as a frosting for cakes.
Tourists who venture to the Pacific coastal city of Aveiro in northwest Portugal will encounter a number of distinctive desserts, including some unique to the area made almost entirely of roe or ovos – a staple of many South American desserts. The ovos moles dish, or oros moles de Aveiro, means they are the “soft eggs of Aveiro”. In keeping with the name, these dessert treats not only resemble an egg in color and shape, but are made almost entirely of egg yolks, sweetened with sugary syrup and a white communion wafer coating.
The ingredients needed for a batch of ovos moles are egg yolk and sugar syrup, along with any added additions like cinnamon or vanilla. It’s the process that makes them complicated. Originating from a centuries-old delight made by an Aveiro convent, the dessert has long been adored by royalty and roustabouts alike for its simple way of making a savory dessert sweet.
Two simultaneous actions need to be performed to start creating ovos moles. The egg yolks must be separated from the whites, either by hand or with a separating device. Thus, the eggs are beaten into a foam. Meanwhile, a sugar syrup is made with just sugar and water, cooked over moderate heat until a thin, largely uncaramelized paste is obtained. For a batch with eight egg yolks, chefs will use 0.33 cups (or 79 mL) of water and 1.25 cups (or 296 mL) of sugar.
After the syrup has completely cooled, it is vigorously whisked into egg yolks and cooked in molds or shallow pans at about 230°F (or 110°C). Once firm, the ovos moles are prepared or refrigerated to cool. Final preparations may involve squeezing or molding the sugary matter of the egg into a whitish wafer-like confection or even leftover egg whites, to resemble the other components of the egg.
Added touches of flavor are occasionally incorporated into mole ovos to give the final product a distinctive edge. Some of these additions include citrus zest or cocoa powder. The options are countless. However, the material is not always used in the shape of an egg. It is often laid like a sheet between communion wafers. Other times, bakers use it as a rich, protein-rich frosting for a cake. Regardless of the method, it may take several tries before you find the right combination of eggs and sugar.
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