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Boning in fashion refers to rigid strips used to maintain the shape of a corset or bustier. Historically made of whalebone, ivory, or wood, today they are mostly made of steel or plastic. Different materials were used depending on the desired shape and level of restriction. Steel remains the material of choice for high-quality corsets.
In fashion, boning refers to rigid strips of material used to maintain the shape of a corset or bustier. Each strip of boning material is called a bone or support. The bones are sewn vertically into the fabric of a corset or bodice. Bones can also contribute to the cinching properties of a corset, depending on their strength. Historically, the stays were made of whalebone, ivory, other types of bone, and wood, but today they are mostly made of steel or plastic.
The earliest types of corsets, worn from the 16th to the 18th century, were designed to transform the upper torso into a very rigid inverted cone shape. For this reason, very hard materials were used as boning, and there was little space between the bones. In addition to the boning, the great cane was a popular support material in early corsets.
In the 19th century, corsets became less restrictive, with stays often worn only at the front of the corset. The first steel boning dates from this time, and when whalebone became scarce and expensive in the 19th century, people sought corsetry in different materials. The bones were sometimes made of cork, a plant fiber called Coralina, or Featherbone, made from feather feathers.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, corsets became less and less complex and restrictive, with more emphasis placed on comfort than on shaping the body into the desired shape. The bones were used more to hold the fabric taut than to shape and support the torso. In the early 20th century, spiral boning was used for the first time. This type of boning is made of steel arranged in a flat spiral. It is more flexible than traditional stays as it can be bent in both directions and therefore provides softer support.
Today, it is very common to find plastic boning as it is much cheaper than the steel variety. However, steel remains the material of choice for high-quality corsets. Plastic is often too flexible and can warp in unattractive ways. It is also not suitable for lacing, a practice in which people wear corsets to significantly modify the figure, as was common in earlier centuries. As a substitute for steel brackets, cable ties can sometimes be used.
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