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Shirring is a sewing technique using elastic thread to create rows of gathers, used decoratively or functionally in sewing projects. It is similar to smocking, an older embroidery technique that uses pleats instead of elastic.
Shirring is a sewing technique that uses multiple rows of stitches with elastic thread to create rows of shirring. This technique can be used decoratively or functionally in sewing projects, and is related to smocking, an older embroidery technique. Both are designed to allow the fabric to stretch and fit well, allowing people to do things like create necklines that fit comfortably while wearing the garment, and stretch to allow the wearer to remove the garment.
Decoratively, shirring can be used to add structure and texture to a garment. It can also be used to add shape when a garment is loose and may be a bit out of shape. For example, a shirred waist can be created to make a garment sit at the waist and look more visually interesting. Ruching is also commonly used on tops to allow them to fit comfortably across the chest and flare out over the abdomen. Necklines and sleeves can also be gathered to fit perfectly without slipping.
The sewing of shirred garments is usually done on a sewing machine. Elastic thread or specialized shirring thread can be used for shirring, with the elastic thread at the back of the garment, while the regular thread is used for the top of the stitches. The sewers simply run the garment through the sewing machine to create several rows of stitches, and then spray it with water and touch it with an iron to encourage the stitches to tighten into multiple rows of gathers.
Scowling can take a bit of practice. If the stitches are too large, the ruches may feel loose and the ruched area will not lie flat and smooth. Stitches that are too small can also cause problems, such as shirring that is too tight. Individual settings on sewing machines vary, and some actually have a shirring setting that can be used to make shirring garments, drapery, and other projects. Zigzag stitching, if available, can also be used.
Smoking is a much older sewing technique, dating back to the Middle Ages. With smocking, the stitches are used to gather the fabric into a series of folds, or are drawn over a series of folds, depending on the style. No elastic is used; The pleats themselves are designed to expand and contract to allow for flexibility while snapping snugly into place. Several different embroidery stitches can be used for smoking, and some sewing machines can do it. Today, garments that are actually shirred are often sold as “smocked”, creating confusion as to the difference between these two techniques.
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