Concho belts are prized pieces of jewelry made of braided leather and silver embellished with gemstones. They originated from the Zuni and Diné tribes and represent an oral tradition passed down through generations. Turquoise is the most commonly used gemstone, and age is a factor in determining their value.
A concho belt is a distinctive type of belt that is both functional and a work of art. In fact, concho belts are considered highly prized pieces of jewelry, as they are typically constructed of braided leather and round or oval pieces of silver embellished with gemstones. These ornaments are displayed in groups and are named from the Spanish word conchas to mean “shells.” For this reason, a concho belt is sometimes referred to as a shell belt.
The traditional concho belt is unique to the Zuni and Diné (Navajo), the indigenous tribes of the southwestern United States. However, the Spanish, Mexicans, and possibly other people native to the area influenced its evolution. Initially, the Diné learned the art of metal working from the Mexicans, and early concho belt decorations were likely adaptations of the decorative bridle buckles found there. Later, as trade with Europeans increased in the Plains territory, the Diné began hammering silver to make shells from the coins they brought with them. In fact, the Diné were the first Native Americans in the region to produce silver jewelry.
Worn by both men and women alike, the concho belt is still handmade today to traditional standards by skilled artisans. Now, as in the early 19th century, these belts are valued for much more than their ornamental value. Each one is intended to tell a story about the craftsman who designed it, the importance of which is not lost upon passing ownership of the belt. In fact, the concho belts represent an oral tradition that is passed down to each generation within a family. Of course, they also represent considerable material wealth and can reap very handsome returns if sold or traded.
Authentic concho belts were once reserved exclusively for ceremonial purposes. In fact, this is where the sequence of shells and the stones used to create the design becomes significant. For example, turquoise, the most widely used gemstone, is renowned for its healing properties. Other popular materials used to decorate concho belts are lapis lazuli, red coral, and oyster shell.
While gemstones are an important element to concho belts, not all shells contain an overlay of gemstones. Some are simply brushed and embossed with designs. Also, some are made of copper instead of silver.
Aside from the materials, age is a factor in determining the monetary value of a concho belt. In fact, very early pieces are particularly favoured, due to the beautiful patina that metal and leather develop over time. These specimens are also usually quite heavy, containing eight or nine large pieces of sterling silver which add to their visual appeal and weight. While some of these pieces now reside in museums and private collections, many are still distributed for sale by dealers in antique and ethnic jewelry.
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