The cumberbund is a wide-waisted cummerbund worn by men instead of a waistcoat. It was created by British military officers in colonial India who found waistcoats too hot. It became a necessary component of the black tie dress code and is usually worn with a tuxedo jacket and single-breasted trousers. Contemporary cumberbunds are usually elasticated, with buckles at the back for fastening.
A cumberbund, or cummerbund, is a wide-waisted cummerbund worn by men instead of a waistcoat or waistcoat. This type of cummerbund is mostly worn with formal wear, such as a jacket or tuxedo. Cumberbunds are frequently made from silk or brocade fabric, and come in a wide range of colours, although black is the predominant colour. One side of the garment is often pleated, while the other side is plain.
British military officers in colonial India are responsible for the creation of the first cumberbunds. These gentlemen found the climate in India too hot to wear a waistcoat, so they substituted the waist sash. This cummerbund allowed officers to maintain a sleek and dapper appearance without feeling weighed down by a vest. The cumberbund’s origins in colonial India are evidenced by its name: cummerbund is an English rendering of the Urdu word “kamarband,” meaning “waist restraint” or “loin band.”
The cumberbund gradually became a necessary component of the black tie dress code. In this way, it was worn on formal occasions by civilians and military alike. The standard color for the garment became black, to match the tuxedo. Navy blue cumberbunds were also not uncommon, and an 1893 article in a London newspaper stated that the garment should be “crimson” in color.
Historically, gentlemen wore their cumbertoes with the pleated side up. Cumberbund pleats replace pockets usually found on a vest. A man could store theater tickets or other small personal items within the folds of the cummerbund.
The correct way to wear the garment in modern times is with the pleats up or down, depending on the wearer’s preference. A cumberbund still serves as an alternative to a waistcoat and is usually worn with a tuxedo jacket and single-breasted trousers. Men may also wish to wear a bow tie or tie with a tuxedo. In this case, the color of the tie should generally match the color of the cumberbund. At weddings, it’s not uncommon for the groom and her groomsmen to wear cumberbunds to match the bridal party’s dresses.
Contemporary cumberbunds are usually elasticated, with buckles at the back for fastening. This makes it easy to adjust the fit of the girdle around the waist. When wearing a cumberbund, most men choose to wear suspenders to hold up their pants, rather than a belt.
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