The farthingale was a popular device in 15th and 16th century European fashion, originating from Spain and expanding to France and England. It was used to create a distinctive cone-shaped silhouette and was often worn with a bumroll. The undergarments worn by women of the upper classes were complex and heavy, making movement difficult. The farthingale was impractical for working women but was a fashion statement for the upper classes.
A farthingale is a device used to add structure and shape to a skirt. The farthingale was popular in European fashion in the 15th and 16th centuries, and was responsible for the silhouette people associate with the Tudor period in England. Numerous examples can be seen in artwork from this period in European history, and a number of reproductions have been produced by clients around the world for use in plays, historical re-enactments, and other events.
This garment originated in Spain, where it was known as the verdugados. The Spanish farthingale was originally made from reeds that were formed into hoops sewn into outer garments, making the structure clearly visible. Over time, underwires began to be worn on an undergarment, leaving the outer skirt smooth and creating a distinctive cone-shaped silhouette. The style traveled to France and then to England with Catherine of Aragon.
The English expanded on the original design, creating a style known as the English or Great Farthingale. Intended to be worn under a robe, this garment created a distinctive sloping-shelf shape that was high in the back and low in the front, allowing skirts to fall directly from the shelf to the floor. The shape accentuated narrow waists and considerably broadened the appearance of the hips. The famous Portrait of Elizabeth of Ditchley that I painted in the late 1500s by Marcus Gheerraerts shows a classic example of the English farthingale.
The farthingale was usually worn with a bumroll which was designed to push up and support the skirts at the back so they would not sag. All told, the undergarments worn by women of the upper classes during this period in history were quite complex and often very heavy. The hooped skirt itself could be extremely heavy with the weight of boning or wooden hoops, and once heavy outer skirts made of materials such as brocade were covered by supporting undergarments, women could find themselves burdened with heavy garments. .
Moving with the farthingale in place took some practice. Especially ornate dresses could make it difficult to navigate streets and buildings. These garments were impractical for working women, as it is not possible to comfortably wear this wide, rigid undergarment when cooking, cleaning, and similar tasks. However, for women from the upper classes, creating dresses that were as baggy as possible became a form of extreme fashion statement.
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