Bezel setting is an ancient method of securing stones in jewelry with a metal band. It is safe, versatile, and protects the stone from scratches. Bezel settings can be full or partial, and are popular in modern jewelry design. Quality bezel settings should have stable stones, aligned facets, and no damage.
Bezel setting is a method of fixing a stone on a piece of jewelry. The bezel setting is probably the oldest setting for stones, and it is somewhat surprising considering that this simple and versatile setting has been in use for thousands of years. A setting simply consists of a metal band wrapped around the stone to hold it in place. Numerous examples of bezel settings can be seen in jewelry stores, and if you want to see antique bezel settings in active use, many museums have an old jewelry section that often includes prong-set stones.
There are a number of benefits to the bezel setting. Firstly, it is one of the safest possible settings for a stone, as when done well, it will hold the gem securely in place without risk of loss. A bezel setting also protects the stone from scratches and dirt, and this setting can be used in a wide variety of ways, making it highly versatile. Many people find bezel settings to be elegant, with clean, smooth lines, making them popular in modern jewelry design.
In addition to a full bezel, gems can also be set in a partial bezel. As the name suggests, a partial bezel is made up of several strips of metal that are wrapped partway around a gem, allowing some of the sides to be seen. The bezels can also be combined with other bezels in complex jewelry to meet a variety of needs.
Making a bezel setting is simple enough, although the details of the setting can get tricky. The jeweler cuts a piece of metal to the desired thickness and height and welds it together before inserting the gem and wrapping the edges of the bezel onto the stone, essentially wrapping the stone in a tight pocket of metal. Many settings are designed to be flush with the surface of the ring, creating a low profile for the stone, which can be an advantage for active people who don’t want to risk damaging their jewelry.
There are a number of things to look for when inspecting a bezel setting to ensure it is of good quality. The first thing to check is the stability of the stone. The stone should not wobble or yield at all in the setting; if it does, the bezel is loose and you risk losing the stone. If the stone is faceted, the facets should align with the design of the jewelry. The stone should be uniform and level, as should the material used to make the bezel, and you should also check the stone for damage.
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