The French hood, a popular women’s headdress in the 16th century, was worn with a black veil and a specific hairstyle. It is a separate headpiece worn over a coif, and paste was used to add structure and color. Anne Boleyn introduced it to England, and it evolved with the addition of billaments and a bongrace. Today, it is worn as part of Tudor or Elizabethan wardrobe.
First seen in 1490, the French cowl became a popular type of women’s headdress of the 16th century. The French hood is round in shape and was traditionally worn with a long black veil at the back. A specific hairstyle, a center part and two separate braids fastened at the nape of the neck, matched the hood. The hood was pulled over the hair, covering the ears with the black veil that hid the view of the braids.
Unlike what is considered a hood today, which is attached to the body of a garment, the French hood is a completely separate head piece. The hood is worn over a piece of white linen or cotton called a coif. The coif, a fitted half-cap, was always kept pristine and secured to the head under the chin with ties or attached to the head with hairpins. While the coif was worn by peasants and aristocrats alike, the addition of the French cowl was greatly favored by the wealthiest woman of the day.
Used over styling to add color and create contrast, the paste is used to add structure. The term paste was derived from the process whereby the material was hardened using paste or a thick starch. Often more than one paste would be used at a time, providing more color variation.
It is said that it was Anne Boleyn, who spent her formative years in France, who introduced the French cowl to the women and styles of England. At this time, the head piece was simple and unadorned. However, like much of the evolution of women’s fashion pieces over time, there have been subtle changes. Billaments were added to the French bell creating a rim that was often folded over. Jewelry of many colors and silverware were attached with colors to match the dress being worn.
As it gained popularity, the hood changed in shape and style. Originally, the French hood sat further back on the head exposing the center portion, but as time progressed, the front portion was extended forward to shield the wearer’s skin from the sun’s damaging rays. This bill or visor is called a bongrace or bugle. Today French cowls are worn as part of Tudor or Elizabethan wardrobe.
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