The hustle was a necessary part of 19th century women’s costumes to support the heavy drapery at the back of gowns. It evolved from the uncomfortable crinoline and eventually became the bustle, which slimmed down women’s waists and gave them an hourglass figure. The bustle became obsolete in the early 20th century, but is still used today for practical reasons, such as keeping dresses off dirty floors.
A hustle is a crucial part of a 19th century women’s costume. She supported and raised the heavy drapery at the back of 19th century gowns so the gowns wouldn’t drag or get out of shape over the course of the day. Historically, hustles took various forms before disappearing entirely in the early 20th century. Today’s women usually wear dresses only with costumes, although some high-fashion and formal wear integrate a bustle.
The origins of the bustle lie in the crinoline, a rigid frame that was placed under the dresses of the early 19th century. Crinolines gave these dresses their characteristic full, elongated shape. They were also somewhat uncomfortable and difficult to wear, with women finding it difficult to maneuver their very heavy, full dresses. As a result, the shape of the crinoline began to change, with the sides and front of the bell shape being cut out, and the drapery migrating to the back of the dress. The bustle arose to accommodate the changing fashion.
A bustle fastens below the waist, and in its full form consists of a partially circular sash that raises the back of the dress and pushes it away from the rear. When looking at a woman wearing a side ruffle, one can be forgiven for thinking that she had a formidable rear end, but this illusion is, in fact, created by the ruffle. Flowy skirts and draping at the back slimmed down women’s waists, giving them a highly desirable hourglass figure.
The first bustles had slim sides, some draping in the front, and a very full back. By the late 1800s, the front of the dress had also become flattened. All these hustles were usually made of wire or stiff cloth frames, attached to a belt at the waist. As the hustles began to thin, some began to take the form of fabric pads, making the dress shape much more streamlined. The change in fashion for female figures made the hustle obsolete in the early years of the 20th century.
Fashion standards for dresses required the use of a bustle, because otherwise the thick fabric at the back of a dress would have misshapen the dress. However, the hustle and bustle was also a practical measure, as the dress could catch on the hustle and bustle, keeping you off the dirty floors and dance floors. Some modern dresses include accessories for the busy days for this very reason. Many brides, for example, use a bustle at their reception so that the full train of the wedding dress is not damaged.
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