A jerkin is a structured, sleeveless leather jacket traditionally worn over long undergarments. Originally used for military purposes, it became a status symbol for the upper class. Modern jerkins are made of less expensive materials and are popular for outdoor activities.
A jerkin is a short, typically sleeveless, leather jacket worn over a long-sleeved garment. Most jerkins are made of light oiled oxhide leather and fasten in the middle. Closures are often dictated by the fashions of the day. For example, 17th century Dutch jerkins commonly used ribbons as closures. However, modern jerkins often use buttons or hook-and-eye closures.
While the jerkin pattern is reminiscent of a vest pattern, there are some key differences between these two garments. A jerkin is a highly structured garment that follows the natural lines of the body. Most vests, on the other hand, are unstructured and baggy. Jerkins are also traditionally worn over long undergarments, such as a doublet. Vests can generally be worn over any item of clothing.
The structured nature of a jerkin was ideal for military and social purposes. Characterized by thick leather and a slightly longer sleeve than the modern equivalent, the medieval garment was originally worn in battle as an added layer of protection against weaponry. Many armies began to decorate their jerkins with honors and awards to denounce courage on the battlefield. From this point on, the jerkin gradually became accepted as part of a standard military uniform.
Jerkins were used as part of the military uniform as recently as World War II. During this period, the British Army wore a distinct leather garment with Bakelite buttons called the Battle Jerkin. Many militaries adopted the jerkin style of outerwear after World War II, using it to replace the standard heavy overcoat.
As the jerkin was becoming more popular as part of military equipment, it was experiencing a similar rise in popularity in civil society. Medieval jerkins were highly decorated and ornate articles of clothing normally worn by upper class people to denote wealth. Leather jerkins used expensive materials and skilled craftsmanship not generally available to the lower or middle classes. Until the late 19th century, these highly decorated garments were generally considered a status symbol.
When the British Army began making jerkins out of leather and canvas, civilian dress also changed to incorporate less expensive fabrics. The most popular modern jerkins are made of fleece or windproof fabric. Many people find modern jerkins to be ideal for outdoor activities that require the participant to be able to move freely.
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