The Mao suit, also known as the Zhongshan suit, originated in China in the early 20th century and was developed by Sun Zhongshan. It was later associated with Mao Zedong and Chinese communism. The suit was designed to mix Eastern and Western fashion and was promoted as a common man’s garment. It eventually took on political and governmental connotations and became a symbol of Chinese nationalism.
A Mao suit is a robe from China named after the former revolutionary leader Mao Zedong. Also known as a Zhongshan suit, the origins date back to the first leader of the Republic of China. Originally established as a national outfit for men, the suit eventually developed governmental and political associations. Chinese leader Mao Zedong often wore the suit in public speeches, so it is likely related to him, and Chinese communism, in world historical perception.
The origins of the Mao suit date back to the early 20th century, to the original leader of the Nationalist government in China. Sun Zhongshan, also known as Sun Yat-sen, is generally credited with developing the attire as part of a Chinese tradition to change the national dress style with each new dynasty. It is believed that he instructed a tailor named Huang Longsheng to design a suit that incorporated aspects of Western-style military uniforms, student uniforms, and business suits.
Mao’s suit was an attempt to mix the fashions of the East and the West. The exterior of the suit had four symmetrical pockets, instead of the three interior pockets often found in Western business suits. It originally had seven buttons down the front of the garment, but the button number was later reduced to five. There was a straight upturned collar which was eventually replaced by a turndown collar to imitate German military uniforms. The suit was traditionally navy blue or grey, and the sleeves often had three buttons.
The Mao suit was promoted in China as a common man’s garment, and later took on connotations with the government and political climate of the time. In the 1920s and 1930s, Chinese officials were required to wear the suit. After Sun Yat-sen’s death in 1925, the suit took on patriotic and revolutionary mythology: the four pockets representing the Four Cardinal Principles in the Book of Changes; the five front buttons representing the five yuan, or branches of government; and the three buttons representing Yat-sen’s Three People’s Principles.
Mao Zedong wore the Zhongshan suit to project his vision of nationalism and ideology during public engagements. He wore the suit during his first speech as leader of the People’s Republic of China, in October 1949. His constant use of the suit as public attire eventually led the majority of the Chinese population to regard it as the national attire. His continued public appearances in the garment eventually led Western societies to come up with the name, the Mao suit.
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