A puffball skirt is a short, mid-length skirt with a puffy effect created by folding the hem under and sewing it to the lining. It was popular in the 1950s, fell out of fashion in the 90s, and made a comeback in the late 2000s. It is best worn with a fitted top and cinched waist.
Also known as a “bubble skirt” or “harem skirt,” a puffball skirt is a short, mid-length skirt that is folded under the hem and sewn to the lining, pulling the fabric together and creating a puffy effect. Puffball skirts are usually made of taffeta or satin, but have also been created in tweed, denim, and other more casual fabrics. When a puffball skirt is made from a relatively loose fabric, it is usually filled in with tulle to give the skirt structure and added fullness.
In the 1950s, puffball skirts were a popular women’s fashion item often worn to cocktail parties and proms. French designer Yves St. Laurent designed a puffball skirt under his apprenticeship with Christian Dior, and the skirt was also a signature piece from The House of Balenciaga. In the late 1980s, the puffball skirt appeared on the runways in a collection by fashion designer Christian La Croix. La Croix is often credited with inventing the design, which was nicknamed le pouf and included in his debut couture collection along with corsets, bustles, laces and other details inspired by 18th-century ball gowns.
The puffball skirt fell out of fashion during the grunge era of the early 1990s, when fancy fabrics and overly embellished details were swapped for plaid flannels and no-nonsense minimalism. Puffball skirts then made a comeback in the late 2000s, and were accompanied for the first time by “puffball sleeves” sewn using the same folded technique. Today, puffball skirts are a popular feature on ball gowns, wedding dresses, and ball gowns.
The puffball skirt is best worn with a dressier, fitted top, to avoid overloading the frame with too much volume. Puffball skirts are also generally more flattering when the waist of the skirt is cinched in with a belt or bow. Intricate details or accessories should also be avoided elsewhere in the outfit when wearing a puffball skirt, which should be the centerpiece and highlight of the outfit. Some modern twists on the puffball skirt include asymmetric hems and tiered hems. Many newer designs of puffball skirts, such as those carried by UK retailer TopShop, are also ‘joined’, meaning they feature a different cut of fabric at the waist or below the puffed hem.
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