A shawl collar is a rounded collar combined with a lapel, commonly seen on sweaters, jackets, blouses, and smocks. Its origins trace back to the Victorian smoking jacket and is a simple neckline to create. The appearance of the shawl collar can vary greatly and is versatile, going well with a wide variety of neckline shapes.
A shawl collar is a collar combined with a lapel. It is usually a rounded collar paired with a V-neckline that sweeps across the chest and tapers near the waist. This type of collar is commonly seen on sweaters, jackets, blouses, and smocks. The collar traces its origins to the Victorian smoking jacket, the collar style of which also inspired a lapel style for dinner jackets.
Many garments have shawl collars in part because the shawl collar is a simple neckline to create. At the seam, a shawl collar has fewer pattern pieces than a notched collar, since the style of the shawl is an extension of the lapel of the garment. Such a sewn collar consists of a lower collar sewn to the back of the neck and an upper collar which forms the shawl part of the garment. Shawl collars can also be knitted very simply. Woven as a rectangular wedge shape that matches the length of the neck opening, the collar joins with the overlapping ends at the front of the garment.
The first to feature shawl collars, Victorian smoking jackets are garments of silk or velvet with matching collar and lapels that may be single or double breasted. Men wore these jackets instead of their tailcoats when they retired to smoke so that their evening clothes would be protected from the smell of cigars. The smoking jacket also kept the coat free from damage from smoking and burning tobacco. Originally, the smoking jacket was considered leisure or lounge wear, as its construction was based on that of the smock.
Over time, the shawl collar seen on the smoking jacket was adapted to the dinner jacket, a common component of a gentleman’s tuxedo. Less formal jackets with the same lapel style were also available. The more formal V-collar was reserved for morning coats and double-breasted jackets. In modern times, both the older shawl collar and the more elegant V-neck are acceptable on a dinner jacket for formal wear.
The appearance of the shawl collar can vary greatly, from the subtle round neck of a dinner jacket to the oversized lapels of a cardigan sweater. Shawl collar garments are quite versatile: due to the rounded shape of the neckline and the V-shape of the neckline, the shawl collar goes well with a wide variety of neckline shapes. The collar style is found by many to be very flattering, as the shawl neck area frames the wearer’s face and the long lapels give the appearance of a slim silhouette.
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