Wave patterns show wave height, direction, and swell propagation. Data comes from buoys, weather observations, and satellites. Color and vectors indicate sea state and swell period. Physics and storm tracking also affect wave models. Predicting tropical systems is difficult.
A wave pattern is a representation of how high the waves are, where they are heading, and how the swell patterns are propagating around the world. One type of model represents the height of the waves and another type shows the times between each wave surge. The data is derived from ocean buoys, weather observations and forecasts, and satellites. Ocean waves are complex and difficult to predict in all situations, but mariners can use a wave model to get an idea of wave conditions for specific areas at specific times.
Color is usually used to show the state of the ocean. Shades of red typically indicate areas where waves are high and seas are rough, while shades of blue and purple show relatively calm seas. Concentric circles can also be used to indicate areas where the wave height is the same. Sea height graphs also have arrows, called sea vectors, to indicate which direction the waves are going or are predicted to be based on weather forecasts.
The arrows used on a wave pattern to show the swelling period are known as swelling vectors. Based on the time period, these maps show an average maximum swell time depending on where the sailor is. The differences in swell periods occur when wind-generated waves move away from storms, and the model shows where those waves aggregate, such as swell fronts. This gives sailors an idea of how long rough seas will last and surfers an estimate of how long the waves will be optimal for surfing.
Time is the primary factor in ocean waves, but so are physics. A wave model also takes into account things like the relationship between moving waves and the overall body of water. Objects are moved by a wave in a general circular motion, defined mathematically as a trochoidal curve below the peak of the wave. The ratio of wave height to length also affects how waves travel and interact.
Storm tracking data is also fed into the wave patterns. It’s easier to predict wave characteristics for large-scale storms, but most computer models don’t scale well with what happens with a hurricane. Tropical systems are smaller and less predictable, so it is difficult to predict sea state in advance even with a wave model. Weather forecasting agencies produce such models twice a day, with some meteorologists providing a three-day forecast, while others forecast up to a week.
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