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The origins of Eccles cake, a popular British pastry, are disputed, but it is believed to have been invented in the mid to late 18th century. The modern version contains raisins, candied fruit, butter, sugar, and spices, and is baked in puff or flaky pastry. Eccles cakes were originally exported and contained alcohol to preserve them. They come in various shapes and sizes, and are best eaten warm.
Culinary history, especially that of British cuisine, needs to pause and reflect on the advent of Eccles cake, a raisin pastry that is also sometimes referred to as dead fly cake. The origins of this popular pastry date back to the mid or late 18th century, depending on which version of the Eccles cake story you choose to believe. Some suggest that Eccles cake was indeed invented in Cheshire and a similar recipe exists in a cookbook published in 1769, written by Elizabeth Raffald. Others recognize James Birch, a local Eccles merchant for first selling the pies at his corner shop on Vicarage Road.
While there is controversy as to who invented Eccles cake, there is no arguing how popular these cakes have become. Birch cakes sold quickly and there was a high demand for these sweets. Birch was very gracious about his recipe, refusing to distribute it, so published recipes for the pies had to be reinvented by cookbook authors. Mrs. Raffald’s recipe differs slightly from the modern interpretation. It contained a version of mincemeat surrounded by pastry.
Birch’s version also most likely contained brandy and may have raisins and apples. The pies were soon popular exports, and many attest to their ability to “keep,” even when imported across the ocean to American settlers. This suggests that most Eccles pies originally had alcohol, with an interior much like mincemeat, which would have helped preserve the pies as exports to America and the West Indies.
The modern Eccles cake is a combination of cooked currants or raisins, candied fruit or citron, butter, sugar, and spices such as nutmeg. The puff pastry, which can vary from puff pastry to the more typical flaky pastry, is rolled out and cut into circles. Each circle gets a dollop of fruit mix, then is folded over to produce a sandwich-like shape, which can be folded. The pastries can then be brushed with a little egg wash or sprinkled with sugar before being baked in the oven.
You’ll also find square, rectangular, and half-moon versions. The more standard version often features numerous wide cuts across the top. This allows you to see the raisins or “flies,” which fill the inside of the pastry.
Eccles cake sizes vary. Some recipes recommend about four inches (about 10 centimeters) wide for each circle. This provides an easy-to-hold treat, although if you can stand it, allow the pies to cool before eating, as the filling will be very hot. Fans of Legions of Eccles can’t wait for them to cool down and argue that they’re best eaten when they’re still warm enough.
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