The reverse pleat is a sewing technique commonly used on drapery and clothing, creating a three-dimensional look without adding bulk. It involves folding the fabric back on itself to form a loop, which is then pressed into two side folds and sewn in place. Inverted pleats can be sewn horizontally along the top edge of the fabric to support the pleat. Advanced sewing skills are not necessary, and tutorials are available online. It is recommended to allow plenty of time and practice with fabric before starting a project.
Commonly used on drapery and clothing, the reverse pleat is a popular sewing technique that keeps most of the pleat structure hidden. A typical box fold, or double fold, has the bulk of the folds showing on the outside, also called top folds. A reverse fold is essentially a backward box fold.
To shape the pleat, the fabric is folded back on itself, forming a loop that is folded where the fabric meets. This may look like the back of a crease, but it’s actually the front or top crease, with the voluminous bottom crease tucked underneath. The fabric loop is evenly pressed into two side folds, opposite each other, becoming the bottom fold. The entire fold is permanently sewn in place.
Typically, an inverted pleat is sewn horizontally along the top edge of the fabric to support the pleat. The rest is dropped at the bottom. Sometimes the contrasting fabric is slipped into the middle of the pleat from the front. The fabric is then turned inside out and a hidden stitch is sewn vertically down the ironed folds to hold the extra piece of fabric in place.
In fashion, the inverted pleat often adds a three-dimensional look to the garment while allowing the garment to drape smoothly without adding bulk. When used for skirts and jackets, the inverted pleat can be comfortably opened for much more movement than a flat pleat.
Advanced sewing skills are not necessary to complete a reverse pleat drapery project or to learn the technique. Sewing reference books and online tutorials may offer simple instructions, pictures, or videos. Tutorials often offer recommended pleat measurements, but it may be best to hold a piece of practice fabric sewn or pinned in multiple pleats against the area they will be hanging on. This method offers an opportunity to get an idea of the fold width that works best in that space.
When beginning a project, it is recommended to allow plenty of time, start with fabric practice, and hope to purchase additional material. Some sewers may prefer the use of recycled materials, which can usually be found at consignment stores or garage sales or in the neighborhood. This project may also require one to sew through many layers of material, so carefully choosing the right fabric and sewing foot can help get the project off to a good start.
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