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Atchara is a popular Filipino condiment made from shredded unripe papaya and other ingredients pickled in a vinegar, salt, and sugar solution. The papaya must be green and unripe for the dish to maintain its crunch. The pickling process takes at least five days, and the dish is typically served at the start of a meal or alongside appetizers.
Once the skin of the Asian papaya begins to turn yellow, the fruit is considered ripe and ready to use in a variety of dishes. Before that yellowing occurs, even unripe green papayas serve a purpose, particularly as a popular Filipino condiment known as atchara. Also spelled achara or atsara, this pickled treat combines shredded unripe papaya with other ingredients like onions, carrots, peppers, garlic, ginger, corn, and even raisins in a fermented juice of vinegar, salt, and sugar.
It is important that the papaya is green and unripe for the atchara to preserve its distinctive crunch. Once the fruit begins to turn yellow, it can be used in other ways, but not for pickling. After the peel has been removed, the flesh of the fruit should be cut into thin, short strands which will form the basis of this traditional dish. After adding a little salt, the papaya should be covered in a bowl and left overnight in the refrigerator.
Without the other ingredients, the atchara would be bland and lifeless. After the green papaya has sat overnight, onions, carrots, green or red peppers, and ginger are sliced in a similar thin style, forming a colorful and flavorful slaw. The salt is rinsed off the papaya slices, which are then combined with the other ingredients in the bowl – including, for some chefs, corn and raisins for color and sweetness.
Before fermentation can begin, the vinegar solution must be heated on the stove. The vinegar, salt and sugar are heated to a boil, until the salt and sugar have completely dissolved. According to one recipe, add 1.33 cups (about 300 mg) of sugar and 1.5 cups (about 360 mg) of salt to about 2 cups (about 475 mL) of white vinegar, although cider vinegar would not be a unusual replacement.
Once the vinegar solution has completely cooled, the papaya and greens are placed in a jar, then the pickling liquid is poured over the top to fully submerge them. Some chefs also add whole peppercorns. The jars are then sealed and refrigerated for at least five days, although several days will add a pickling effect. Some don’t store atchara in the refrigerator; however, after opening, it is recommended to keep it refrigerated.
A saltier variant of atchara produces a more bitter taste by leaving out the raisins and sugar. These dishes are typically served at the start of a meal in the Philippines or alongside various appetizers. A popular accompaniment is spare ribs. Some commercial versions of atchara use finely chopped papaya and greens rather than in long strips; however, the pickled flavor is quite distinct in both versions.
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