Biopolished cotton is cotton treated with enzymes to break down cellulose fibers, resulting in a softer fabric without harsh chemicals. It lasts longer and holds its shape better than regular cotton. Enzymatic treatments are now used for other fabrics, reflecting a trend towards natural and biodegradable substances.
Biopolished cotton is a type of cotton that has been treated with enzymes, mainly cellulase. Cellulases are enzymes that digest or break down cellulose, the main fiber found in plants. Because cotton is a plant, its weave can create a hard, rough fabric that isn’t particularly comfortable. For a long time, cotton has been treated with various chemicals to soften it.
In the late 20th century, Japanese scientists wanted to find a way to soften cotton without using potentially irritating chemicals. This is often called ecoprocessing. They developed the concept of using microbial cellulase enzymes to digest and break down some of the cotton, resulting in a very soft cotton called biopolished cotton – bio due to the use of live enzymes – which is now very popular.
With the application of some enzymes, the biopolished cotton becomes softer. Enzymes are applied to the fabric at specific high temperatures and basically break down the tiny cotton fibers that protrude onto the surface of the fabric. Without a microscope, you might not even notice these fibers, but for people with sensitive skin, they can feel itchy, rough, or irritating. This cotton is much less likely to pill than cotton when washed. You will usually find that biopolished cotton holds its shape better and lasts longer, looking newer.
Several countries patent many of the enzymes used in biopolished cotton. These include lixazyme, lixaprox, Bio-gloss and a host of others. Because many of these techniques are patented, there is little information about the specific source of the enzymes.
If this type of cotton was the first fabric to be treated with enzymes, many others followed. Tencel® receives its soft feel through the process. Even cotton mixed with jute can be biopolished. Manufacturers began treating wool with enzymes in 1995, resulting in wool that was softer and often machine washable.
Bio-polished cotton is just one example of the many enzymatic treatments for different fabrics. There are now numerous means of ecoprocessing to make the fabric more malleable, revive the fabric, facilitate its dyeing and alter the appearance of the fabric. Stonewashed denim is likely to be made from biopolished cotton rather than actually stonewashing the fabric, making the process much more efficient. Of course, you could also consider stonewashing, when no chemicals have been added, as a form of ecoprocessing.
The use of enzymes to treat fabrics reflects current trends among manufacturers looking to find more natural means of making or improving products. Reducing the debt to the environment by using natural and biodegradable substances is becoming quite common in a variety of industries. With regards to biopolished cotton, the use of ecoprocessing not only gives us a less chemically treated garment, but also some of the softest and most durable cotton garments currently available.
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