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A chemisette is a garment worn by women to fill out the neckline of a top and prevent exposure. Originally made of cotton, it evolved into an ornate garment worn with elegant clothing. Today, it can enhance a plain sweater or update worn clothing. The dicky version is worn by women in the military for warmth and as an alternative to wearing a tie.
A chemisette is a type of shirt or piece of cloth that is intended to fill out the neckline of a woman’s top. Squatting down with a low-cut top or sweater can be too revealing in some circumstances, and this item of clothing can prevent a woman from exposing more than she intended. Already in the Middle Ages, modest women developed the forerunner of chemistry to cover their cleavage and preserve their virtue.
Originally, a cotton shirt was a type of cropped tank top or T-shirt. While a garment intended for everyday wear was usually made of cotton muslin or linen fabric, the more ornate ones were worn with more elegant clothing when visiting friends or attending a social event. The elegant chemisette often featured elaborate pleats or darts and more sumptuous fabrics. The garment also provided an extra measure of warmth in drafty homes heated by inefficient fireplaces or while performing outdoor tasks such as tending small livestock or gardening.
The word chemisette is the diminutive form of the French shirt. The women wore linen shirts as undergarments under their skirts and also as nightwear. The shorter garment evolved to have the same effect but without adding unnecessary bulk where it was not desirable.
Today’s fashion standards are less stringent, but a chemise shirt can enhance a plain sweater or update one that has seen a lot of wear. It can be as simple as a shaped piece of fabric that is slipped into the neckline of a garment, and this type is sometimes known as a dicky. Vest-style tank tops are sometimes called faux camisoles and serve the same function, filling out a low neckline or providing extra warmth in winter.
The vest-style shirt stands out as an item of clothing on its own. When made from a semi-sheer fabric and embellished with ribbons and lace, this top can be worn as nightwear or even clubwear. Alternatively, chemosettes are worn by Renaissance Faire participants, historical reenactors, and museum guides as part of period costume.
A dicky type chemo is a shaped piece of fabric and usually has some means of securing it to other undergarments to prevent slipping. Elastic ties on each side can be fastened around the bra straps to keep the fabric in place. Another popular variety of the dicky chemisette mimics the look of a blouse and is designed to be worn under a V-neck or crew-neck sweater when a sleeved garment would be too bulky. Dicky-like chemists made of knitted fabric and resembling a turtleneck are also periodically in fashion.
While chemists are generally considered fashion accessories today, women in the military often wear the dicky version as part of their uniforms. A dark dicky under a uniform blouse helps retain heat and offers an alternative to wearing a tie in some military units.
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