Epoisses cheese is a French raw milk cheese with a pungent odor and runny insides. A pasteurized version is available in the US. The cheese is made in Epoisses, Burgundy, and is often served after dinner. It is washed in brandy or wine and has a distinctive salty flavor. The cheese is paired with bread, fruit, and wine. The Berthaut label is associated with Epoisses cheese made in the traditional style.
Epoisses cheese is a French artisanal raw milk cheese with a strong characteristic odor and runny insides. Like many traditional French cheeses, the cheese’s intense pungency may be unappealing to some consumers, while others revel in it. In the United States, where raw-milk cheeses are banned unless they’ve been aged for at least 60 days, a pasteurized version of Epoisses cheese is available, with a much less vibrant flavor.
The cheese originated in Epoisses, a town in the Burgundy region of France. A nearby town, Brochon, makes a similar cheese known as Ami du Chambertin. Cheese has been made since at least the 1700s, and is said to have been a favorite of Napoleon. Many other famous French food critics and personalities have been fans of Epoisses cheese, which is usually served after dinner as a cheese to finish off a meal.
To make the cheese, the milk is gently coagulated and then drained to remove the whey. The remaining curds are salted and poured into molds without being heavily compacted. As the cheeses solidify in the moulds, they are washed, first in brine and then in brandy or wine. As a result, the cheeses develop a distinctive salty flavor, along with an orange to reddish skin. The cheese can mature for about two months before being placed on the market and must be consumed quickly.
A good Epoisses cheese will have a pungent odor and will resemble a sticky paste when opened. Cheese is often served with spoons, so consumers can spoon it onto hearty artisan breads and some fruit. The cheese can also be paired with strong red wines and tangy whites. If the cheese has a strong ammonia odor or is runny, it is no longer good to eat and should be discarded.
In 1956, a cheesemaker named Robert Berthaut, along with his wife, became concerned with French artisanal cheeses. He started making Epoisses, along with an assortment of other cheeses. Today the Berthaut label is associated with Epoisses cheese made in the traditional style. Berthaut also makes a version acceptable for sale in the United States, as the milk is heated enough to kill potentially harmful bacteria. Some producers also label the cheese Epoisses de Bourgogne, to indicate that it is an authentic Burgundy Epoisses cheese. In 1991, the cheese received a controlled designation of origin, to preserve its history and integrity.
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