Lhotse, the fourth highest mountain in the world, is closely associated with Mount Everest and is a challenging climb. Its status is disputed, but it has been successfully summited by several hundred climbers. Guided expeditions are available, but it is not for amateurs.
Lhotse or Lhozê is the fourth highest mountain in the world, located on the border of Nepal and Tibet. The mountain is closely associated with Mount Everest, and is actually connected to Everest along the South Col, the approach to Mt. Everest which is used by people who climb from the Nepalese side. Several hundred climbers have successfully submitted Lhotse, and as of 2007, 11 have died, including a female Sherpa who had previously successfully summited Mt. Everest twice, illustrating the dangers of the Himalayan mountains.
There is some dispute over the status of Lhotse, which means “South Peak” in Tibetan. Some people argue that because it is closely related to Mt. Everest is actually a part of Everest and should not be considered a mountain in its own right. Many major peaks have minor peaks that are somewhat smaller but closely related to them, and Lhotse is clearly intimately connected with Mount Everest. Either way, Lhotse’s peak is unique, and can be a very challenging climb, depending on how you approach it.
Lhotse’s first successful summit was in 1956, when Swiss climbers Ernest Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger summited. Lhotse’s elevation of 27,890 feet (8,506 meters), making it a popular target for rock climbers, mountaineers attempting to scale all mountains in a particular elevation class. The south face of Lhotse is incredibly steep and few climbers have attempted it. Other faces are more forgiving, though still dangerous.
Everest climbers move along the western face of Lhotse, also known as the Lhotse Wall. The Lhotse Face is icy and very difficult to navigate, especially as climbers are getting used to the higher altitudes and physical exertion. Once climbers have reached the South Col via the Lhotse Face, they have a few days to attempt the Everest summit, or must descend the mountain again, as the effects of altitude sickness can start to become severe.
Just as is the case with Everest, several companies offer guided Lhotse mountaineering expeditions. In some cases these expeditions require a minimum of guides and basic equipment, while others are full service climbs, complete with everything you need, from food to oxygen tanks. A large support crew usually accompanies people who are attempting to summit, including Nepal’s famous native guides, the Sherpas. Even with heavy assistance, these climbs are not for amateurs.
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