Lyocell is a biodegradable fabric made from treated wood pulp, commonly sold under the brand name Tencel®. It is versatile, durable, and used in clothing, automobiles, and industrial applications. While it is considered eco-friendly due to its natural origins and closed-loop manufacturing process, it requires a lot of energy to produce and uses petrochemical derivatives. It can be blended with other fibers and treated for various textures. Its uses include clothing, linens, cigarette filters, vehicle carpeting, and industrial applications. The production process requires a lot of energy and the substances used to treat the fibers are derived from petrochemical products.
Lyocell is the generic name for a biodegradable fabric made from treated wood pulp. It is commonly sold under the brand name Tencel®, manufactured by Lenzing AG. Known for its versatility, durability and strength in both wet and dry conditions, this material is used in everything from clothing to automobiles. Although it is often considered environmentally friendly due to its natural origins and manufacturing process, it is made from petrochemical derivatives and requires a lot of energy to produce.
Productive process
The manufacturing process of lyocell begins by treating wood chips about the size of a coin into a thick paper-like substance, which is then sent to a fabric manufacturing factory. Once there, it is broken into approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) squares and chemically dissolved. The resulting slurry is then forced through a device called a spinneret, which has many small holes, kind of like a strainer. This causes the blend to form long fibers, which are again chemically treated, rinsed and dried and oiled before being compressed, combed and cut. Subsequently, they can be spun for use, either alone or in combination with other materials.
Features and uses
In its pure form, this material is very durable both wet and dry and lasts a long time. It can be blended with many other types of fibers, including cotton, wool, linen, silk and Lycra®; and can also be treated to have a variety of textures, from silky to denim. It drapes well and resists wrinkles which makes it popular for evening wear. In addition, it is very absorbent and absorbs moisture well, so it is often used to make sportswear and summer clothing. Depending on how it is treated, lyocell can be machine washed, hand washed or dry cleaned only.
In addition to clothing, lyocell is used in the manufacture of linens, some cigarette filters, vehicle carpeting, baby wipes, and bandages. Its durability also makes it suitable for industrial uses: it is commonly found in conveyor belts, oil filters and capacitor separators. It is also used to reinforce some plastics and to make some types of paper.
Debate on ecological status
Lyocell is often seen as an eco-friendly fabric as it comes from renewable sources, is biodegradable, and is made in a closed-loop system that recycles nearly all of the chemicals used. The raw materials needed to make it also take up much less land and water than those needed for comparable materials such as cotton. Furthermore, Tencel® is usually made from eucalyptus trees grown without pesticides or artificial irrigation. While trees are a sustainable resource, the wood has to be shipped to manufacturing plants from Africa, which requires a lot of fuel. The production process also requires a lot of energy and the substances used to treat the fibers are derived from petrochemical products. The processes used to dye or texture lyocell sometimes include the use of toxic chemicals, although this varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.
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