Ankle boots were popular in 17th and 18th century Europe, later adopted by various military uniforms. They were made of tough leather coated with tar and were modified for different types of soldiers. The boots are associated with the Nazi regime and authoritarianism.
Ankle boots are black or brown leather over-the-knee high boots with wide toes and thick heels that are divided into cavalry and spike varieties. These boots were originally made with waxed cat leather coated with pitch or tar for waterproofing. Popular in 17th and 18th century Europe, ankle boots were later adopted as part of the military uniform of various nations during the 20th century. The ankle boots were eventually replaced by Hessian boots distinguished by their tassel decoration. Ankle boots are most strongly associated with Germany’s Nazi regime and can be used as a symbol of authoritative power.
These boots became popular in the late 17th century, when European nobility began wearing them over their dress shoes while riding and hunting. Originally, ankle boots were designed to fit over regular shoes so that the wearer could venture outdoors, get dirty, and simply remove the outer boots upon entering. Any valuables could be stored in small pockets in the boot lining.
Ankle boots were first made of a tough type of leather that was coated with tar or tar to make it waterproof. Since it was rigid, these knee-high boots had to be cut behind the knee to allow the wearer to bend their legs. This stiffness also required the use of a boot jack to remove the boots, which may have helped coin the term boot.
Several European nations later adopted the boot as part of their military uniforms. This style was part of military clothing in France, Germany and England, among other countries, until the 20th century. Once adopted by the military, boots were typically modified, depending on the needs of a particular type of soldier. Over time, to meet the needs of military combatants, calvary and spiked boot varieties were developed.
The calvary boot is high and winged at the knee. This design was particularly useful for ordeal on horseback because the boot could be lined with chain mail or other strong protective material. This modification helped protect the rider’s legs from injuries, swords, and other melee weapons.
The spiked variety is best suited for the marching infantryman. Slightly shorter than the Calvary variety, this type is made more durable with spike-reinforced soles. This boot was popular with the German military in the 20th century, although it was replaced by a type of boot when leather supplies dwindled during World War II.
The military use of the boot declined after World War II, although it is still part of the dress of the Russian soldier. The decline of this style gave rise to other similar types of military boots, such as the Hessian boot, which is decorated with a tassel. The Hesse was succeeded by the Wellington, often worn with spurs.
The boot is strongly associated with the Nazi regime in Germany and with authoritarianism in general. This is partly the result of widely circulated images of German soldiers stomping boots and making a distinctive sound on concrete or other hard surfaces. Neo-Nazi supporters often wear boots as well, giving rise to the pejorative term booted thug.
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