Tursu is a pickling method popular in the Middle East and Balkans, using vinegar, salt, water, garlic, and spices to preserve seasonal vegetables. The vegetables are prepared and soaked in a vinegar mixture for several weeks to months, resulting in a sour flavor. Regional variations exist, such as Tsarska turshiya and torshi liteh, and an Italian variant called giardiniera.
Tursu is the Turkish version of Torshi, a popular Middle Eastern and Balkan method of pickling different seasonal vegetable mixes. Meaning “sour” in Persian, the recipe’s sour moniker reflects just one element of a complex and flavorful method of preserving precious resources. With occasional variations by region, the concoction features vinegar, salt, water, garlic, and spices that drown fresh greens like carrots, beets, eggplants, chilies, cauliflower, turnips, and cucumbers.
Acquiring the right vegetables and preparing them for a few months’ sleep is usually the first step a chef will take in preparing tursu. This includes washing and slicing and even cooking a little if needed. Eggplants, for example, need to be half cooked before storing or the end result will be too tough to eat. Vegetables such as cucumbers or carrots should be peeled, unless miniature varieties are being used. Many are left on a counter for several hours, with a little salt to dry them out.
The pickling liquid used for tursu is what gives the vegetables their sour name. It is often done at the same time and the chefs cut various vegetables and place them in a clear jar for storage. White vinegar, or a boiled mixture of equal parts water and vinegar, is added to completely soak the tightly packed vegetables. Ground garlic, salt and black pepper are frequent additions to the liquid, as are dried herbs such as thyme and rosemary. The more salt the chef uses, the less vinegar will be needed.
When the jar is completely filled with greens and vinegar, it’s ready for storage. A lid is placed tightly and is left in a cool, shady place such as a basement or closet. After a few weeks, the vegetables should be tender, lightly pickled and seasoned. After a few months, the vegetables will taste sour.
Some regional variations of tursu involve using only certain types of vegetables or different preparation methods. Tsarska turshiya, for example, uses cauliflower, celery, peppers and carrots, which are left out with salt and sugar. The next day, a vinegar mixture is boiled and then cooled before the storage period can begin. Another version, torshi liteh, is made solely with eggplant, which shares its pickling liquid with a distinctive blend of coriander, tarragon, basil, and mint.
An Italian variant of tursu is known as giardiniera. Many Italian restaurants serve these pickled vegetables as an appetizer for a meal. Making it more distinctive, this dish usually adds onions and often peppers, and soaks the vegetables in white or red wine vinegar instead of just grain-based white vinegar.
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